For nearly 30 years, the first weekend of May has seen Cheltenham transform from a quaint suburb into a bustling hub of international jazz talent. Centered in Montpellier Gardens and spilling out into the Regency buildings around the town, this year's festival paired local talent with pioneers of the contemporary London scene like Nubya Garcia, global icons like the Buena Vista All Stars, and household names like Macy Gray. I spent the weekend sampling the activity around town, before hitting the big top for Sunday’s headliners, Beverley Knight and David Gray.

While ticketed events were priced how you would expect for a middle-class spa town, there were plenty of free acts showcasing some of Gloucester’s finest. Highlights from Saturday on the main stage included the North West Yorkshire Duke Ellington Orchestra, whose all-age ensemble did the composer justice. Surprisingly, DJ Dan, billed as ‘Wetherspoons' favourite,’ was also a standout. His selections of jungle, dubstep, and speed garage provided a welcome break from sophistication for the night.

Beverley Knight played a star-studded set on Sunday afternoon, featuring tracks ranging from her heyday hits like "Shoulda Woulda Coulda" to covers of songs by some of her biggest influences. Her electric stage presence felt slightly wasted in the Big Top, which was completely seated, but soon enough, the more excitable members of the crowd swerved the rules and started dancing in the aisles. After all, songs like Janis Joplin’s "Piece of My Heart" simply must be enjoyed on your feet.

Closing the big top on Sunday evening was David Gray, performing the first gig of his tour for his latest critically acclaimed album, Dear Life. Recorded during the COVID-19 pandemic, the album, much like 1998’s renowned White Ladder, reflects on the highs and lows of life. However, this time, perhaps influenced by the forced isolation of lockdown, Gray delves even deeper into themes such as religion, science, and mortality. His performance was impeccable, with his signature yearning vocals and folktronic instrumentals even more tear-inducing live. Crowd favorites like "Babylon" and "Sail Away" were expertly woven with his new material, the latter impressively receiving an almost equal reception.

Late at night, the party continued in true jazz style, in cramped rooms and basements around town. Everywhere from the unlikely venue of John Lewis to the ridiculously classy Hotel du Vin had programming going on into the early hours. It’s the festival's ability to embrace the mainstream elements of the genre today while holding on to the community ethos of the early jazz scene that makes you want to come back time and time again.

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